What are Sumptuary Laws?
ant-luxury laws; limited how extravagant your wealth could be displayed- a sacrifice many Puritans happily made…put pple on an equal level
What is a guardaroba?
Set of clothing made up of three garments: two layers of indoor clothing and a mantle for outdoors
At the beginning of the Renaissance, textiles from _______ were quite popular.What two textiles were used most often?
Italian
Wool and silk
Wool and silk
What evidence was there that indicates that there was an improvement of silk-weaving looms in the 15th century?
The complexity of decorations of Italian silk fabrics
As a reflection of the close trading contacts
Decorative motifs from Chinese, Indian or Persian in origin were on many fabrics.
One of the most important styles that have originated in Turkish-dominated lands was
the turban-like hat style that was often seen in portraits
What are some of the ways dress from this time period is documented?
letters, diaries, paintings, sculptures, inventories of personal possessions.
In the 1400-1450’s men wore
Doublets worn with hose at the knew and hikes over doublets
What are houppelandes?
garment fitted over a mans shoulders and widened below into sep tubular folds or pleats which were held in place by a belt.
What is a camicia?
undershirts usually made of linen. The quality of the fabric varied based on the status of the wearer.
What were dresses like in the 1450-1500 for women?
Straight from should to hem with a smooth fitting, yoke like construction oner the shoulder which opened into full pleats of gathers offer the bustline and were generally belted
Mid-century of the Italian Renaissance necklines were
rounded and high
Later in the century of the Italian Renaissance necklines were
lower, some were squared while others had deep V’s held together by lacing
What did Italian women were during the Italian Renaissance in their hair?
Italian women wore their hair elaborately with a “token” head cover in the form of a small jeweled net set at the back of the head or a sheer small veil. Hair usually braided and looped with curls for decoration.
What is black work?
a black-on-white Spanish embroidery
What is a doublet?
Waist to knee length jacket that is fitted to the torso and the waist
What is a huke?
similar to a vest usually worn over the doublet
In the Italian Renaissance how were sleeves cut?
Puffed upper arm and fitted lower arm
Hose for men of this the Italian Renaissance were
joined at the crotch and parti-colored or decorated.
What is a cod-piece?
specific part of garment to cover genitals
What hats were worn during the Italian Renaissance?
Pillbox or Turan
What influence changes mens clothing in the 16th century?
Spanish
What are slashings?
Decorative effect in garments made from different colored fabrics
What were the 3 layers women wore during the Italian Ren.?
-Camicia
-Underdress
-Overdress
-Underdress
-Overdress
What is the underdress?
Made with bodices and skirts joined that fitted closer to the body
What is an overdress?
cut like a mans huke and seemed at the shoulders.
Usually open under the arm to show the underdress
Usually open under the arm to show the underdress
What were the sleeves like for women of the Italian Renaissance?
Tighter at the wrist puffier at the shoulder and usually split at the elbow for movement. Could usually see the camicia.
What is a ferroniere?
Chain of metal or pearls with a jewel on the forehead
What changes occur in women’s dress during the 16th century?
Bodices tighter and more fitted and skirts wider. Spanish influence
What are Chopines?
very high platform soled shoes
What were some of the regional differences in Venice?
Liked bleach blonde hair with two horns and their chorines were very high
What is a doge?
long robe with wide sleeves worn by Venitian Officials.
What was a large influence in the northern Renaissance?
Cross-cultuarl influence
During the 16th century what was one of the main factors for cross culturalization of fashions?
Intermarriages of the royal families
What other sources were available that influenced fashion?
imported garments and fabrics, books, travelers reports, portraits
Who introduced Italian fragrances?
Catherine de Medici
What was beginning to be used for stockings?
hand knitting
What is Spanish work?
especially fashionable embroidery originated in spain the consisted of black silk figures on fine white linen.
What is cutwork?
embroidered designs created and then the rest of the fabric in between the embroidery is cut away
What is filet?
Also known as lacks. Embroidered patterns on a net background thought to be the forerunners of lace.
What is lace?
constructed entirely from threads dispensing with any backing fabric
What is needle-point lace?
made by embroidering over base thread arranged in a pattern and connecting these base threads with a series of small intricate stitches.
What is bobbin lace?
Also known as pillow lace. A creation of complex patterns by twisting or knotting together a series of threads held by bobbins.
What is a ruff?
Made of linen or lace, stiffly starched collar that was difficult to keep up with and grew throughout the century.
What is a paltock?
A version of a doublet but with a deep v at the front which sometimes had a filler of contrasting color inserted under the V. (stomacher)
What were bases?
separate short skirts worn with a jacket or doublet for civil dress or over armor for military dress.
What was phase one for men?
similar to late middle ages
What was phase two for men?
Strong german influences with wide, full, puffs and slashes
What was phase three for me?
Spanish influences predominated, narrower shoulders with wider hip.
what were gowns like for men in the 16th century?
bulky shoulders with elbow length puffs
What is a trunk sleeve?
Wider on the top and narrower at the bottom with sleeve
what is a peas cod belly?
increased padding in front of doublet with the point at the front of the doublet is very pronounced. (Peacock belly)
What are pecadils?
Stiffened tabbed edges at armhole and wasitband
What are breeches?
Seperate garments worn together with separate stockings. Venitian were wide at the top tapering at the knee and open were wide and full throughout.
What are trunk hose?
puffy upper section of breeches stuffed with bombast
What are gallygaskin or Slops?
sloped narrow at waist to fuller by mid thigh.
What are cullots?
Not much more than pad around hips worn with very tight-fitting hose
What are pumpkin hose?
Extremely puffy and short breeches
What are roundhouse panes?
Cut outs that were on the trunk hose that at its most extreme help weapons and other necessitates.
what are canions?
Worn with round hose. were close fitted
What is phase one of women’s clothing?
Move towards the renaissance
What is phase two of women’s clothing?
Spanish influence change to petticoats and overdress
What is phase three of women’s clothing?
growth of skirt supported by hoop
In the early 16th century what was the dresses silhouette?
hourglass, small waistline with skirt split to show petticoat.
What are part lets?
modesty panels for open neck bodices
What were common sleeves for women of the 16th century?
smooth with a decorative cuff, wide funnel shaped or hanging sleeves
what is a busk?
flat long piece of wood or whalebone sewn into a dress
verdugado was…
the first hoop skirt also known as a farthingale
what is a farthingale?
a stiff framed skirt that was cone shaped
What was a ropa?
An A-lined dress from spanish origin that was an outer gown or surcoat
What was the major changes of womens dress in the late 16th century?
wider hips with skirts that grew to extreme widths. Collars were also bigger
what is a bum roll?
a padded device that was placed just below the waist
What is a conch?
standing collar, linen cloth wired behind the head
What is the wheel farthingale?
higher in the back looks like a circular peplum
What was a gable hood?
hood with peak in the front (heart shaped)
What was common make up for the 16th century?
white arsenic make up
What was baroque style?
emphasized lavish ornamentation, free and flowing lines and flat
what is the guardifante?
Spanish farthingale
What is the matilla?
veil worn to cover the hair
what is a basque?
extension of bodice that came down over the skirt
What is the mannerist style?
realistic representations of religious themesm appealed to the emotions
What are common textiles during the 17th century?
Silk, velvet, satin, linen, tafetta
what is the draw loom?
makes elaborate designs on silk?
Define calicos
colorful indian printed cotton
What is chintz?
hand painted or printed and sometimes glazed
benghali mulin
demand for cotton led to smuggling (highly priced)
What happened to the ruff in the 17th century?
turned into a flat lace-trimmed collar called a falling band or whisk
In the 17th century what changes occurred to the doublet?
fitting and shorter, less peacock look, straight cut peplum
what are rosettes?
decoration on shoes during the 17th century
What are slap soles?
flat sole shoe attached only at the front
What is the galosh?
flat-soled overshoe with toe cap for keeping it in place
How were capes worn in the 17th century?
Shorter, usually only on one shoulder
What is a love lock?
One hair piece grown longer than the rest
What is a cravat?
A flat collar
What did breeches look like in the 17th century?
almost looked like skirts sometimes called petticoat breeches
what are cannons?
ruffles at the bottom of clothing
Who was influential in the vest?
King Charles II
What was a vest?
knee length and covered breeches
What is the three piece suit?
coat, vest, breeches
What changes came for women in the 17th century?
softer silhouette with puffy shoulders and lace collar, farthingale goes out of style and bodices lengthen into a v.
what are virago sleeves?
full pained sleeves that showed the chamise as well
What were the necklines for women in the 17th century?
horizontal
What is a stomacher?
worn over the corset for decorations
What changed for skirts with women in the 17th century?
Skirts were looped around and draped at the hip
what is the mantua?
derived from middle eastern robes imported into europe. Full in back and front garment was over a forest and underskirt.
What was the fontange?
An elaborate headdress influenced by the mistress of Louis XIV
what were pantofles
heel-less slippers
What were plumpers?
balls of wax that gave the face a rounder shape
what is a layette?
swaddling bands.
what is the flying shuttle?
increased weaving speeds and stimulated the use of cotton lowering cotton prices
Who were the Macaroni’s?
British dandies that wore bright colors silks and lace trimmings
Wht was the 3 pice suit in 17th century?
waist coat, outer coat breeches
What did the coats of the 17th century look like
extremely decorated, sometimes fur lining with side seams
what was the ditto suit
used all the same fabrics for everything
the frock coat
more casual and functional
what were the stockings of the 17th century?
white, with artificial calves
what was the stein kirk?
cravat in which the tie pulled through the button hole loosely
banyan
nightgown, loosly fit and comfortable
what were women’s gowns like during the first part of the 17th century
wide fitted and large bottoms
what are panniers?
a frame for womens dresses
a la anglis?
gowns fitted in the back
a la francis
fitted in the front
engangeates
decorative flounces at the sleeve cuffs. ruffles
esheclles
decorative at the stomacher
caraco
fashionable two piece dress. less formal
robe a la polaniase
ruffles and puff in the back of the dress
chemise a la reine
made of muslin and less formal gathered at the waist
