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    Early Middle Ages: Capital of Byzantium (present day turkey)?
    Constantinople
    Early Middle Ages: What fabrics were used?
    linen and wool primary; silk was imported from China (sericulture) – then became center of silk production
    Early Middle Ages: Men and women both wore…
    under and outer tunics with full-length cloaks
    Early Middle Ages: What replaced the toga?
    Pallium (jeweled wrap) p. 112
    Early Middle Ages: When did the fall of the Roman Empire happen?
    During the middle ages
    Early Middle Ages: Dynastys…
    Merovingian Dynasty, Carolingian Dynasty
    Middle Ages: Had what type of system
    feudal system (feudal wars constant between Germany, Britain, France
    Middle Ages: Primary Fabrics
    wool, also linen, cotton & silk
    Middle Ages: Source of info?
    Religious Art
    Middle Ages: Mens under drawers…
    braies (where the modern term breeches derives) p. 131
    Middle Ages: Chemise…
    linen undershirt worn with braies
    Middle Ages: Cote….
    undertunic worn over the chemise and braies; upper class – long , laborers or military – below the knee
    Middle Ages: Hose…
    Worn by both men and women and covered the leg
    Middle Ages: Surcote….
    outer tunic, worn to display the cote at the sleeve and the mens skirt
    Middle Ages: Did the chemise under cote and surcote have a variety of sleeve styles?
    yes
    Middle Ages: Bliaut….
    worn by women and upper class, was complex in fit and laced extremely tight along mid-torso p. 130
    Middle Ages: In the Early 13th century, did surcote styles become looser?
    yes
    Middle Ages: Womens headwear….
    fillet (standing linen band, like a crown, over which a viel might be draped), Barbette (a linen band that passed down from one temple under the chin and up to the other temple), wimple p. 136
    Middle Ages: Mantle…
    Outerdoor garment for men and women, was fur lined
    Middle Ages: Closed Mantle…
    poncho like, with an opening for the head
    Middle Ages: Open Mantle….
    Cloak-like with closure at center front or side
    Middle Ages: Mens outdoor garments by the 13th century
    Garnache, Poulaines, Herigaut
    Middle Ages: Garnache….
    long cloak with capelike sleeves
    Early and Late Middle Ages: Poulaines….
    pointed toe shoes
    Middle Ages: Herigaut….
    outdoor garment worn during the middle ages with slits under sleeves for arms p. 140
    Middle Ages: Chainmail…
    p. 138
    Italian Renaissance: means
    rebirth
    Italian Renaissance: classical…
    greece and rome
    Italian Renaissance: Ruled by a ….
    small city states in italy ruled by a monarch
    Italian Renaissance: Clothes during this period were
    purchased or made at home
    Italian Renaissance: Guardaroba..
    set of three garments purchased by the middle-class families during the italian renaissance
    Italian Renaissance: Sources of info..
    paintings (realism), documents, extant garments
    Italian Renaissance: Men wore undergarments similar to…
    braies
    Italian Renaissance: Camicia was a ….
    undershirt worn with hose, laborers loosened their hose p. 187
    Italian Renaissance: mens doublets…
    extended to the waist or any place below the hip (four seams – front, back and both sides – allowed for a closer fit) p. 199
    Italian Renaissance: Outdoor wear for men…
    capes cut very full to accommodate silhouette underneath p. 189
    Italian Renaissance: Womens camicia was the same as the chemise…
    yes; and remained much the same for the next two centuries p. 195
    Italian Renaissance: How did they wear the gowns?
    They layered them, made with a bodice section joined to a full gathered or pleated skirt. Closed by lacing up the front and sometimes the side
    Italian Renaissance: How were the layers in the gowns shown?
    through lacing and areas where two parts joined together
    Italian Renaissance: Womens sleeves fit…
    tightly and had to be split so the arm could bend, the camicia showed at the splits, sleeves were generally laced into armholes
    Italian Renaissance: Influence on costume in the 16th Century…
    spanish and french influence
    Italian Renaissance: What was Venice’s distinctive style?
    Chopines (platform soled shoes), blonde hair, high waists, unique dress for The Doge (highest official) and ruling class p. 194, 196
    Italian Renaissance: Later 15th Century influence…
    Spanish; wider skirts, rigid bodice, decorative elements of the camicia showed at the neckline
    Italian Renaissance: Late italian renaissance style…
    heavy fabrics, rich decoration and embellishment, several layers showing through outer gown p. 192
    Italian Renaissance: Accessories…
    Jewelry (pearls), head coverings (pearls, nets, ferroniere), mens hats, chopine
    Italian Renaissance: Ferroniere…
    chain or band of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located over the center of the forehead
    Italian Renaissance: Chopine….
    very high platform soled shoes, worn in Italy and Northern Europe
    Northern Renaissance: Germany..
    Protestant Reformation
    Northern Renaissance: Spain…
    Gold, wealth, exploration
    Northern Renaissance: England…
    Henry VIII, Mary Tudor (aka Mary I), Elizabeth I
    Northern Renaissance: France…
    Italian Influences
    Northern Renaissance: There was an intermarriage among..
    royalty which led to the spread of fashion
    Northern Renaissance: Decorative textile techniques included….
    embroidery, lacemaking
    Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 1
    1500-1515; similar to late middle ages in components, shoes were now round at the toe though; doublet and hose visually lace together; jackets worn with wide skirts called bases p. 209, 225
    Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 2
    1515-1550; Wide shoulders, full sleeve cap, puffed and slashed p. 210-211 ; German influence, shoulders of doublets and short robes were wide, shoes were squared off
    Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 3
    1550-1600; narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip, trunk hose p. 212 ; spanish influence, doublets worn with different styles of trunk hose, hose and/or breeches worn p. 213, 225 ; doublets were cut with a distinctive shape called peascod belly, short capes worn over the doublet, ruff worn at neck
    Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 1
    1500-1530; transition from the styles of the medieval period
    Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 2
    1530-1575; Spanish influence, overdress was hourglass in shapes supported by farthingale with square neck and flared skirt, left open to show petticoat p. 225, 216, 217
    Northern Renaissance: Petticoat…
    womens underskirt
    Northern Renaissance: Ruff…
    separate from shirt, very wide, often of lace (collar)
    Northern Renaissance: Upper and Nether stocks…
    two sections that were sewn together (upper stocks also called breeches)
    Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 3
    1575-1600; skirts grow wide at hips, supported by farthingale and bum roll, collars extend upwards to counter balance hip width p. 221
    Northern Renaissance: Womens undergarments…
    chemise plus various new pieces to provide shape to outer garments: stays (corsets), busk, farthingale (later called a hoop skirt), and bum roll
    Northern Renaissance: Womens dress…
    a sheer cape called a conch was worn with a standing collar, fabrics were heavy, decorated with layers of surface detail p. 220, 219
    Northern Renaissance: Womens dress….
    lacemaking techniques developed in the 16th century and were incorporated into wide ruffs, collars and cuffs, open ruffs and closed ruffs were worn
    Northern Renaissance: Womens accessories
    gloves, fans, hats, and head coverings, shoes and boots (squared toe and somewhat of a heal)
    17th Century: France….
    Louis XIV & Versailles
    17th Century: England…
    Puritans & the Mayflower
    17th Century: Holland…
    Trade and Middle Class
    17th Century: America…
    Newly colonized, fashionable imports
    17th Century: New Technology
    loom; East India Company trade
    17th Century: Fabrics popular
    silk and wool ; increased european cotton trade and popularity of “cintz” (handpainted and glazed cotton)
    17th Century: Mens dress phase 1
    1625-1650; shirt of white linen, ruff becomes falling band collar, cavalier style hat with wide brim and plumage p. 244, 246, 253 ; jacket worn over shirt, breeches replace trunk hose, tall boots were preferred, hair worn long and curly p. 244
    17th Century: Mens dress phase 2
    1650-1680; Falling band replaced by cravat, petticoat breeches (aka rhine graves – full breeches, look like a shirt), doublet shortens and then evolves out of use, cannons (ruffles) attached to hem at the knee p. 247
    17th Century: Mens dress phase 3
    1680-1700; White shirt worn with long cravat sleeved waist coat (aka vest, extending to the knees), and outer coat over vest. Silhouette becomes narrower, with a closer fit on the body p. 250
    17th Century: Accessories for men
    cravats, wigs, boots p. 252
    17th Century: Womens dress phase 1
    1630-1660; softer silhouette replaced the wide farthingale, a wide lace collar edged the usually low neckline, full sleeves p. 251
    17th Century: Womens dress phase 2
    1660-1680; Bodices lengthen and narrow, shaped into long “v” at the front, skirts were either open with contrasting petticoat or closed, necklines were often horizontal p. 254
    17th Century: Womens dress phase 3
    1680-1700; Necklines become higher and more square shaped, decorated stomacher (front bodice inset) pinned to corset front, mantua style gown with train, sleeves end just below elbow p. 255, 256 ; elaborate lace headdress called a fontange, plumpers made of wax worn inside cheeks
    17th Century: Were capes worn by men and women?
    yes p. 246, 261
    17th Century: Accessories for women
    copotains, fans, mules, slap sole shoe p. 252
    The Late Middle Ages: changes..
    taxing to support wealthy, gunpowder, banking and investments, city workers # go up, black death spreads in cities
    The Late Middle Ages: social structure
    nobility, bourgeoisie, peasants
    The Late Middle Ages: Sumptuary Laws…
    develop to prevent fashionable dress among the merchant class (the bourgeoisie)
    The Late Middle Ages: Sources of Info
    art, inventories, literature
    The Late Middle Ages: styles in the beginning of the 14th century
    for men are loosely fitted, much like those of the late 1200s
    The Late Middle Ages: 14th century style for men
    pourpoint, cote-hardie, houppelande p. 152, 171
    outdoor garments – garnache, herigaut, cloak p. 140
    The Late Middle Ages: Pourpoint…
    sort of mans jacket worn in 2nd half of the 14th century
    The Late Middle Ages: Cote-Hardie…
    variant of surcote or outer tunic, shows differences in usage of same form from country to country
    The Late Middle Ages: Houppelande…
    originating as a mans house cote worn over the pourpoint, the garment was fitted over the shoulder, then widened below into deep, tubular folds or pleats, which were held in place by a belt
    The Late Middle Ages: Garnache…
    long cloak with capelike sleeves
    The Late Middle Ages: Herigaut…
    full garment with long, wide sleeves and a slit below the shoulder in front through which the arm could be slipped, leaving the long, full sleeve hanging behind
    The Late Middle Ages: mens accessories
    jeweled belts, purses, pointed poulaines or crakowes, head coverings
    The Late Middle Ages: Womens dress 14th century
    linen chemise was the only undergarment p. 163, womens gowns (formely the cote) fit the body more closely again p. 164, 166
    The Late Middle Ages: Womens outdoor garments
    capelike, open mantles
    The Late Middle Ages: Womens accessories
    jewelry, head coverings, belts, purse hanger, purses
    The Late Middle Ages: 15th century mens dress
    Cote-Hardie is replaced by doublet and/or short houppelande ; men also wear jackets (longer than doublets), and braies grew shorter p. 171, 166 ; separate hose are gradually replaced by joined hose that have a front pouch called a codpiece
    The Late Middle Ages: Outdoor garments for 15th century men
    cape, huke, cloak
    The Late Middle Ages: Accessories for 15th century men
    poulaines, purses, hats
    The Late Middle Ages: 15th century womens dress
    gowns follow body lines closely and were floor length, women adopted the houppelande (over gown)
    The Late Middle Ages: last half of the 1400s for women…
    women adopted an elaborate gown with a deep v-neck, high headdress worn in variety of styles esp. the hennin
    The Late Middle Ages: outdoor garments for 15th century women
    open mantles
    The Late Middle Ages: accessories for 15th century women
    purses, shoes, jewelry, headwear p. 166, 167
    The Late Middle Ages time period
    c. 1300-1500
    The Early Middle Ages time period
    c. 300-1300
    The Italian Renaissance time period
    c. 1400-1600
    Northern Renaissance time period
    c. 1500-1600
    The 17th Century time period
    c. 1600-1700
    Middle Ages was considered:
    Europe 10th-13th centuries
    Chainse…
    outergarment for upperclass women; made of washable material, probably linen, was long to seems to have been pleated
    cote…
    undertunic, worn over chemise and braies
    gown…
    formerly the cote
    hennin..
    enormous cone-shaped, peaked hat, yard high p. 164
    huke..
    worn by upperclass men, originated as covering for armor, closed over shoulders and open at sides
    pelice…
    any of a number of fur-trimmed garments including outer wraps, under tunics and outer tunics
    poulaine…
    pointed to womens shoes

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