History of Costume Final

A richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in colored silks enriched or not by gold and silver threads.

The most common decorative motifs for Renaissance fabrics were the artichoke, the pomegranate, and the pine cone.

The left sleeve was the most expensive because the precious decoration were on it.

A mushroom shape headdress.

Extremely high slippers. Look in the notes for picture.

It is an outer garment like a jacket with long bodice. Made out of velvet, silk or even brocade. Inspired by the Turkish Caftan. (Look in PPT for picture)

Petticoat, combination of bodice, skirt, and sleeves.
Ex: Cosimo I de’ Medici’s coronation outfit.

A type of hat that was made out of velvet, embellished with jewels and medals. (Look in PPT for picture)

Spanish- Vertugado, bell-shape, Falda- Italy. Farthingale- England.
French farthingale have a barrel shape.
Made out of bombast, cane, or rope and kept together by stiff hoops.

Pants worn under the skirt by women as a type of underwear. Only prostitute wear pants.

Male garment used by women. It was worn over the petticoat.

Shoes: lost the tip and female slippers became extravagant
Gloves: were perfumed, decorated with jewels and sometimes cut to show the rings

She is shown wearing a one piece called Gamurrino.

The colarette was invented by Catherina de Medici as a compromise opening front collar to allow comfort and ease. It look like a moon crescent collar at the back of a dress.

One of the most important thing in Italian fashion was Spain’s influence. Rigid and dark color, very lavish.

It was a headcovers and hairdress. It could be enriched with jewels, made of gold , silver and precious stones, and with cameo. The 1500s balzo was flatter than the 1400s balzo. (Look at PPT for picture)

Made out of leather, have space for a prominent belly. It shows virility. Male garment from the 16th century.
(Look in PPT for picture)

Rigid bustier, high ruff and vertugado.

They wore farsetto from the Spain’s ambassador to the queen lover’s Robert Dudley.

Most of her outfits had the Spanish high ruff and rigid bustier. She also wore gowns with the crescent colarette that Catherina de Medici created. The gowns were heavily embellished with many popular motifs like artichoke and pine cones. Finally the movie also shown her wearing different wigs as part of the looks, but historically she wore wigs because she was balding.

She also created a compromise to the ruff like Catherina de Medici and Anne of Austria.

Toward the end of the century men always carry a sword as an accessories. Emphasizing the foot in wardrobe also became popular.

The 17th century was the century of male vanity such as longer hair, mustaches, and painted goatee.Spain influenced the male’s attire at this time. It was also the period where Italy lost its power and Rome emerged as the new attraction due to it architecture and artisan.

Consisted of the jerkin, waistcoat, flat collar, large brimmed hats, and trousers.
Jerkin: Known as a sleeveless vest, flare out at the bottom. Made out of felted wool.
Doublet: Another sort of jacket worn underneath the jerkin.
All’Italiana: Flat collar, made out of silk brocade or lace. Often seen on coat or cape.
Trousers became longer.

First artist to attract commoner.
Painting “Common People”- Showed the woman wearing a white shirt with decorated collar band and mantle on top of it.

Women was not considered for education, only for taking care of the children and the house. They were not allow to do anything that men do. Health wise the condition was bad, a woman in that time was always at risk for death when giving birth.

While everyone in Europe abandoned the ruff, this trend continued and became bigger.

He designed a sort of attire, particularly a jacket for the member of the court.

Wife of Louis the 13th. She also made alteration to the ruff to make it more comfortable. The ruff flare out and its tips are pointed. (Look in PPT or notes for pictures)

Prime Minister of France. He curb the luxury since France seem to be spending too much money on fabric imports. He created sumptuary laws specifying what the commoner could wear and reserved luxuries for the nobles and the king.

He issued sumptuary laws in 1644 for the common people. They were not allowed to wear luxury materials.

Wardrobe also stress the important of a man’s legs.
The first 2 decades of the century male and female attire remain the same, but it change afterward as women clothes started to lost rigidity. The ruff disappear and replaced by flat lace collar.

Longer pants, cape, and high dome hats with large brimmed. Boots were also popular.

Moved to Versailles in 1682. He started the idea of seasonal clothing and French fashion. He was the first to wear high heels; shoes with red heels and bows were reserved only for the king and the courtier, called Talon Rouge. The red color was obtained from cochineal, which was a type of beetle from Mexico.

Col rabat – enormous laced collar. Rhingrave – A type of skirt/pants, invented by Count Rhin; it served as an example of the ridiculous evolution of male pants that got bigger over time. Both garments were popular from 1660-1678. (Look at PPT for picture)

It became more rigid with a particular shape. However, it still consisted of three main elements: the bodice, petticoat, and gown.
Chopines- Popular high slippers

Male garment remained typical until the French Revolution.
The Justacorp- A tight fitting long male coat with long sleeves.
The Gilet- Vest.
The Coulotte- Tights pants.
Flare out cuffs
Pockets on the Justacorp serve as decoration that emphasize the importance of male attire.

Lace decorations, it can also be in gold/silver thread, usually added to the front of the jacket.

Hats with large brimmed that are folded up. (Look in PPT for picture)

A la fontanage- curly on top and curly ponytail on the bottom.
Pouf- A hairstyle that have a cage as an under-structure to support its heights and volumes. Within the cage was a small saucer filled with blood and honey in the center to keep the bugs in the hair. (look in PPT for picture).
Sometimes the different hair styles can be as big and tall as 27 inches and were often full of parasites.
Leonard Autte/Gascon was a famous and innovative hairdresser that created many extreme hairstyles for the women of the court.

Louis the 15th obtained regency in 1715 at the age of 5.
Antoine Wateau painted many aristocrats, epspecially women, wearing a certain dress called Wateau gown, a loose sack or dress, worn over a tight bodice and very full underskirt (look in PPT for picture)

A skirt under-structure that create huge volume on the side of the gown. Literally two baskets on the side of the gown. Later it material was altered from whale bones to metal hinges that allow women to pull up their skirts. Popular and peeked during Marie Antoinette period (1730-1770) (Look in PPT for picture)

A scarf, edged with lace, tied around the neck. It was made out of light cotton and muslin; usually in white. It fitted in with Marie Antoinette’s natural style period. (Look in PPT for picture)

Official garment worn by women of the court. It’s very formal. Contained the panier a coudes as skirt under-structure. (Look in PPT for picture)

Unlike the Francaise it was a dress that draped through the use of drawstrings to create more volume in the back of the gown and made it easier to walk. The interior part were made of 3 layers of fabric. It was similar to the polished national costumes.

Male official court dress. Include the Justacorp, Gillet, and Coulottes.

A riding coat that became the inspiration for the modern trench coat.

A type of hat imported from England usually decorated with white feathers.

A type of head cover to keep the hairstyle together.

16th century version- Breast were cover up.
18th century version- Breast were prominent and they were made out of whale bones.

Another name for her style was called Rococo. The main pattern for the fabric was branches of flower and the colors were pastel. She was the first women to take frequent bath. Unusual for that time period.

After giving birth, she wanted a simpler lifestyle, thus the small house was where she often spent time to relax

Inspired by the Roman and Greeks’ antiquity and the Enlightenment philosophy.

The dress that was inspired by her natural style. It has ruffle neckline, colored ribbon at waist and straw hat.

First fashion designer. Her store was called Grand Mogoul.

Wooden dolls dressed like the ladies of the court and Marie Antoinette.

During the 18th century, renovations in fashion and costumes ignited. Sketches from fashion magazines help elevate the fashion elements throughout Europe.

France was experiencing a bad economy, people no longer interested in keeping up with the elaborate details of dressings. Thus, her new sense of style that emits comforts and calmness fit in with the social atmosphere of the time.

Both genders went for a simpler and more modern style. This was particularly focused in England.
In England, the habit a la francaise was altered. The French male attire lose its decorations in jackets, shorter vests, longer pants, no lace, flap collar came into use, and button became more functional.

Connected both to the state of internal finances, where the population lived in the most terrible poverty and the court in an unrestrained luxury; thus, it lead to an external collapse of the court and the people’s rebellion.

J.J Rouseau’s Noble Sauvage theory.
Led people to search for a new contact with nature and to a greater personal hygiene. Going away from the fancy style of dress, because it was view as corruptions.

People like the comfort of this trend.

Due to the discoveries of the lost cities and towns such as Pompeii and Herculaneum in the mid 18th century the peoples started to gain interest in the light and softness from drawing and light colors of the antiquity. In 79 A.D Vesuvius erupted.

Date- July 14th, 1789. Royal family members were later captured and beheaded.

Sans- Coulotte- Members of the French Revolution that wore long pants.
Muscardins- Stylish people who use certain garment to show their opposition to the Revolution.
Incroyable (Male), Merveilleuse (Female)- Young rich peoples, who love lavish costume, and against the Revolution.

A hat used by peasants coming from Phrygia. Later it was used by Roman slaves who regained their freedom. During the French Revolution it was used as a symbol of freedom. Made out of sheep skin.

Cockade- Brooch decorations
Buttons- Used to spread messages of the revolution.

Commissioned to designed the National Costume for the French citizen.

Consisted of trousers, a short jacket called carmagnole, a short redingote, and wooden clogs.

They were often in red, white, and blue, worn with a long redingote.

Costumes became standard and simple, but remain masculine for men. Men jacket were usually grey or blue, larger pants in light colors and tight fitted. Turtle neck was popular because it invoke the idea of holding one head high as a symbol for dignity.

Staged a coup d’etat and installed himself as First Consul in 1799. Then in 1804 the French Senates proclaimed him emperor.

Napoleon’s wife, she emphasize the difference between court dress and city dress. Court dress more elaborate with golds and jewels. Her style were regarded as neo-classic.

Napoleon’s sister was the first woman to wear a white wedding dress.

Fashionable long gloves for women. Fur stoles. Conezou which was a short jacket tied at the back, made out of muslin.

It became more lavish, heavier, no longer transparent. Darker colors for court dresses.

The forms and styles devrided from the Greek and Roman’s antiquity. It permeated every sectors of life all over Europe.

A short jacket made out of cotton or wool worn over the muslin dresses.

Tight pants, no cod piece, light colors to emphasize the leg muscles.
Dark color jackets that are short in the font and long in the back, It was worn over a white shirt.

Toward this time women’s fashion was influenced by different elements of other time period.

Napoleon was defeated and The congress of Vienna was held during this year. The congress redraw the boundary line of European countries by putting the original rulers back on the throne. This congress also had an impact on the costume in the 19th century.

Fashion was determined by the taste of queens and noble ladies. Fashion was also influenced by previous time period. Ex: Painting of Queen Victoria’s costume at the ball contain elements of the 17th century like farthingale and ruffles alongside details from the Renaissance period.

Middle class women wear more dark and severe colors with details from the Middle Age and Renaissance period.
Sleeves became the main attraction; they were large and puffy. Sew below the shoulders.

The waist seam slowly descended to its natural point.
Skirts and necklines became larger
Complex hairstyles

High waist and small sleeves in 1813 to lower waist, bigger sleeves and skirts in 1830. A gradual change in fashion trends.

Typical male hat in the mid 19th century.

First Sewing machine. Fashion magazines available to many. Ready to wear clothes.

He has valuable experience in the textile production process and fabrics. Founded the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisiene. His rise as a designer coincide with the establishment of the 2nd empire in France in 1852. Peoples of the court was asking for fancy costumes and styles and Worth possess the necessary skills.

Mademoiselle Millet patented the skirt under-structure. Made of concentric metal circles, which was lighter and more comfortable to wear.

Flat in the front and bulky in the back. The newer version of the cage crinoline. Similar to the robe a la pollonaise.

It was a small pillow, hooked on the back to give more prominence to the butt.

A male suit for women, it use the same fabric as the male suit. Features a button down jacket with a fitted long skirt.

First designer that created garments without under-structure.

Late 1400s- Vertugado
1500s to early 1600s- Farthingale
1840s- Crinoline
1855- Caged Crinoline
1877 to 1881- Fabric tournure
1880s- Demi Crinoline