exam 2 study guide
Early Middle Ages: Capital of Byzantium (present day turkey)?
Early Middle Ages: What fabrics were used?
linen and wool primary; silk was imported from China (sericulture) – then became center of silk production
Early Middle Ages: Men and women both wore…
under and outer tunics with full-length cloaks
Early Middle Ages: What replaced the toga?
Pallium (jeweled wrap) p. 112
Early Middle Ages: When did the fall of the Roman Empire happen?
During the middle ages
Early Middle Ages: Dynastys…
Merovingian Dynasty, Carolingian Dynasty
Middle Ages: Had what type of system
feudal system (feudal wars constant between Germany, Britain, France
Middle Ages: Primary Fabrics
wool, also linen, cotton & silk
Middle Ages: Source of info?
Middle Ages: Mens under drawers…
braies (where the modern term breeches derives) p. 131
Middle Ages: Chemise…
linen undershirt worn with braies
Middle Ages: Cote….
undertunic worn over the chemise and braies; upper class – long , laborers or military – below the knee
Middle Ages: Hose…
Worn by both men and women and covered the leg
Middle Ages: Surcote….
outer tunic, worn to display the cote at the sleeve and the mens skirt
Middle Ages: Did the chemise under cote and surcote have a variety of sleeve styles?
Middle Ages: Bliaut….
worn by women and upper class, was complex in fit and laced extremely tight along mid-torso p. 130
Middle Ages: In the Early 13th century, did surcote styles become looser?
Middle Ages: Womens headwear….
fillet (standing linen band, like a crown, over which a viel might be draped), Barbette (a linen band that passed down from one temple under the chin and up to the other temple), wimple p. 136
Middle Ages: Mantle…
Outerdoor garment for men and women, was fur lined
Middle Ages: Closed Mantle…
poncho like, with an opening for the head
Middle Ages: Open Mantle….
Cloak-like with closure at center front or side
Middle Ages: Mens outdoor garments by the 13th century
Garnache, Poulaines, Herigaut
Middle Ages: Garnache….
long cloak with capelike sleeves
Early and Late Middle Ages: Poulaines….
pointed toe shoes
Middle Ages: Herigaut….
outdoor garment worn during the middle ages with slits under sleeves for arms p. 140
Middle Ages: Chainmail…
Italian Renaissance: means
Italian Renaissance: classical…
greece and rome
Italian Renaissance: Ruled by a ….
small city states in italy ruled by a monarch
Italian Renaissance: Clothes during this period were
purchased or made at home
Italian Renaissance: Guardaroba..
set of three garments purchased by the middle-class families during the italian renaissance
Italian Renaissance: Sources of info..
paintings (realism), documents, extant garments
Italian Renaissance: Men wore undergarments similar to…
Italian Renaissance: Camicia was a ….
undershirt worn with hose, laborers loosened their hose p. 187
Italian Renaissance: mens doublets…
extended to the waist or any place below the hip (four seams – front, back and both sides – allowed for a closer fit) p. 199
Italian Renaissance: Outdoor wear for men…
capes cut very full to accommodate silhouette underneath p. 189
Italian Renaissance: Womens camicia was the same as the chemise…
yes; and remained much the same for the next two centuries p. 195
Italian Renaissance: How did they wear the gowns?
They layered them, made with a bodice section joined to a full gathered or pleated skirt. Closed by lacing up the front and sometimes the side
Italian Renaissance: How were the layers in the gowns shown?
through lacing and areas where two parts joined together
Italian Renaissance: Womens sleeves fit…
tightly and had to be split so the arm could bend, the camicia showed at the splits, sleeves were generally laced into armholes
Italian Renaissance: Influence on costume in the 16th Century…
spanish and french influence
Italian Renaissance: What was Venice’s distinctive style?
Chopines (platform soled shoes), blonde hair, high waists, unique dress for The Doge (highest official) and ruling class p. 194, 196
Italian Renaissance: Later 15th Century influence…
Spanish; wider skirts, rigid bodice, decorative elements of the camicia showed at the neckline
Italian Renaissance: Late italian renaissance style…
heavy fabrics, rich decoration and embellishment, several layers showing through outer gown p. 192
Italian Renaissance: Accessories…
Jewelry (pearls), head coverings (pearls, nets, ferroniere), mens hats, chopine
Italian Renaissance: Ferroniere…
chain or band of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located over the center of the forehead
Italian Renaissance: Chopine….
very high platform soled shoes, worn in Italy and Northern Europe
Northern Renaissance: Germany..
Northern Renaissance: Spain…
Gold, wealth, exploration
Northern Renaissance: England…
Henry VIII, Mary Tudor (aka Mary I), Elizabeth I
Northern Renaissance: France…
Northern Renaissance: There was an intermarriage among..
royalty which led to the spread of fashion
Northern Renaissance: Decorative textile techniques included….
Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 1
1500-1515; similar to late middle ages in components, shoes were now round at the toe though; doublet and hose visually lace together; jackets worn with wide skirts called bases p. 209, 225
Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 2
1515-1550; Wide shoulders, full sleeve cap, puffed and slashed p. 210-211 ; German influence, shoulders of doublets and short robes were wide, shoes were squared off
Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 3
1550-1600; narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip, trunk hose p. 212 ; spanish influence, doublets worn with different styles of trunk hose, hose and/or breeches worn p. 213, 225 ; doublets were cut with a distinctive shape called peascod belly, short capes worn over the doublet, ruff worn at neck
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 1
1500-1530; transition from the styles of the medieval period
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 2
1530-1575; Spanish influence, overdress was hourglass in shapes supported by farthingale with square neck and flared skirt, left open to show petticoat p. 225, 216, 217
Northern Renaissance: Petticoat…
Northern Renaissance: Ruff…
separate from shirt, very wide, often of lace (collar)
Northern Renaissance: Upper and Nether stocks…
two sections that were sewn together (upper stocks also called breeches)
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 3
1575-1600; skirts grow wide at hips, supported by farthingale and bum roll, collars extend upwards to counter balance hip width p. 221
Northern Renaissance: Womens undergarments…
chemise plus various new pieces to provide shape to outer garments: stays (corsets), busk, farthingale (later called a hoop skirt), and bum roll
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress…
a sheer cape called a conch was worn with a standing collar, fabrics were heavy, decorated with layers of surface detail p. 220, 219
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress….
lacemaking techniques developed in the 16th century and were incorporated into wide ruffs, collars and cuffs, open ruffs and closed ruffs were worn
Northern Renaissance: Womens accessories
gloves, fans, hats, and head coverings, shoes and boots (squared toe and somewhat of a heal)
17th Century: France….
Louis XIV & Versailles
17th Century: England…
Puritans & the Mayflower
17th Century: Holland…
Trade and Middle Class
17th Century: America…
Newly colonized, fashionable imports
17th Century: New Technology
loom; East India Company trade
17th Century: Fabrics popular
silk and wool ; increased european cotton trade and popularity of “cintz” (handpainted and glazed cotton)
17th Century: Mens dress phase 1
1625-1650; shirt of white linen, ruff becomes falling band collar, cavalier style hat with wide brim and plumage p. 244, 246, 253 ; jacket worn over shirt, breeches replace trunk hose, tall boots were preferred, hair worn long and curly p. 244
17th Century: Mens dress phase 2
1650-1680; Falling band replaced by cravat, petticoat breeches (aka rhine graves – full breeches, look like a shirt), doublet shortens and then evolves out of use, cannons (ruffles) attached to hem at the knee p. 247
17th Century: Mens dress phase 3
1680-1700; White shirt worn with long cravat sleeved waist coat (aka vest, extending to the knees), and outer coat over vest. Silhouette becomes narrower, with a closer fit on the body p. 250
17th Century: Accessories for men
cravats, wigs, boots p. 252
17th Century: Womens dress phase 1
1630-1660; softer silhouette replaced the wide farthingale, a wide lace collar edged the usually low neckline, full sleeves p. 251
17th Century: Womens dress phase 2
1660-1680; Bodices lengthen and narrow, shaped into long “v” at the front, skirts were either open with contrasting petticoat or closed, necklines were often horizontal p. 254
17th Century: Womens dress phase 3
1680-1700; Necklines become higher and more square shaped, decorated stomacher (front bodice inset) pinned to corset front, mantua style gown with train, sleeves end just below elbow p. 255, 256 ; elaborate lace headdress called a fontange, plumpers made of wax worn inside cheeks
17th Century: Were capes worn by men and women?
yes p. 246, 261
17th Century: Accessories for women
copotains, fans, mules, slap sole shoe p. 252
The Late Middle Ages: changes..
taxing to support wealthy, gunpowder, banking and investments, city workers # go up, black death spreads in cities
The Late Middle Ages: social structure
nobility, bourgeoisie, peasants
The Late Middle Ages: Sumptuary Laws…
develop to prevent fashionable dress among the merchant class (the bourgeoisie)
The Late Middle Ages: Sources of Info
art, inventories, literature
The Late Middle Ages: styles in the beginning of the 14th century
for men are loosely fitted, much like those of the late 1200s
The Late Middle Ages: 14th century style for men
pourpoint, cote-hardie, houppelande p. 152, 171
outdoor garments – garnache, herigaut, cloak p. 140
outdoor garments – garnache, herigaut, cloak p. 140
The Late Middle Ages: Pourpoint…
sort of mans jacket worn in 2nd half of the 14th century
The Late Middle Ages: Cote-Hardie…
variant of surcote or outer tunic, shows differences in usage of same form from country to country
The Late Middle Ages: Houppelande…
originating as a mans house cote worn over the pourpoint, the garment was fitted over the shoulder, then widened below into deep, tubular folds or pleats, which were held in place by a belt
The Late Middle Ages: Garnache…
long cloak with capelike sleeves
The Late Middle Ages: Herigaut…
full garment with long, wide sleeves and a slit below the shoulder in front through which the arm could be slipped, leaving the long, full sleeve hanging behind
The Late Middle Ages: mens accessories
jeweled belts, purses, pointed poulaines or crakowes, head coverings
The Late Middle Ages: Womens dress 14th century
linen chemise was the only undergarment p. 163, womens gowns (formely the cote) fit the body more closely again p. 164, 166
The Late Middle Ages: Womens outdoor garments
capelike, open mantles
The Late Middle Ages: Womens accessories
jewelry, head coverings, belts, purse hanger, purses
The Late Middle Ages: 15th century mens dress
Cote-Hardie is replaced by doublet and/or short houppelande ; men also wear jackets (longer than doublets), and braies grew shorter p. 171, 166 ; separate hose are gradually replaced by joined hose that have a front pouch called a codpiece
The Late Middle Ages: Outdoor garments for 15th century men
cape, huke, cloak
The Late Middle Ages: Accessories for 15th century men
poulaines, purses, hats
The Late Middle Ages: 15th century womens dress
gowns follow body lines closely and were floor length, women adopted the houppelande (over gown)
The Late Middle Ages: last half of the 1400s for women…
women adopted an elaborate gown with a deep v-neck, high headdress worn in variety of styles esp. the hennin
The Late Middle Ages: outdoor garments for 15th century women
The Late Middle Ages: accessories for 15th century women
purses, shoes, jewelry, headwear p. 166, 167
The Late Middle Ages time period
The Early Middle Ages time period
The Italian Renaissance time period
Northern Renaissance time period
The 17th Century time period
Middle Ages was considered:
Europe 10th-13th centuries
outergarment for upperclass women; made of washable material, probably linen, was long to seems to have been pleated
undertunic, worn over chemise and braies
formerly the cote
enormous cone-shaped, peaked hat, yard high p. 164
worn by upperclass men, originated as covering for armor, closed over shoulders and open at sides
any of a number of fur-trimmed garments including outer wraps, under tunics and outer tunics
pointed to womens shoes